i finally got around to sewing another wiksten tank!
this is made using some lovely cotton shirting i picked up a few weeks ago at bolt. (love that store!!)
i made a few modifications to this simple top. since i first made a wearable muslin (which i haven’t blogged about) using an uber thin lawn i had in my stash. i chose the size that corresponded to my bust size (34″, so a small), and while it is really cute and wearable, it gapes quite a bit at the neck. since i have pretty narrow shoulders, this time around, i cut an x-small for the neckline only and then extended it out to a small at the end of the armhole area. it’s perfect! (i do still have to wear a cami underneath to avoid cleavage views if i bend down, though.)
since i’m pear shaped and really don’t need the extra booty emphasis, i trimmed a bit of fabric off the back. i cut the fabric out according to the pattern, and then after sewing the front and back pieces together i just lined them up and trimmed off the excess from the back. even after doing this, the shirt still ends up hanging a bit lower in the back (on me at least).
i also took about an inch off the upper back using the same method shown by rae. i figured out how much to take off by making a muslin.
because of the curves, the hem is kind of a pain to do correctly. taking a tip from oliver + s patterns, i baste stitch at the fold line, press at the stitches, and then remove them. this helps you get the hem turned easily. however, folding this curved hem (and then folding the raw edges in) is tricky, as you end up with extra fabric in the curved portions (you can see how this would happen in the pic below).
in order to sew this hem correctly, next time i will sew gathering stitches inside the hem and use them to ease in the extra fabric. i will also serge the bottom edge and then only turn the hem over once (rather than twice). an alternative method would be to do a narrow rolled hem.
i have also found that the binding at the neckline droops out a bit on this tank. the pattern just says to cut the bias binding and then sew it on. however, i have read that the correct way to sew bias binding on is to first stretch it out by pressing it. the binding also goes on a lot faster if you fold and press one of the long edges in before sewing it onto the top since it’s much fiddlier to do once the binding is already sewn on (in a circle).
i love the simple shape of this top, and it is everywhere this season. hooray for simple summer projects!