a wiksten tank

i finally got around to sewing another wiksten tank!

this is made using some lovely cotton shirting i picked up a few weeks ago at bolt. (love that store!!)

i made a few modifications to this simple top. since i first made a wearable muslin (which i haven’t blogged about) using an uber thin lawn i had in my stash. i chose the size that corresponded to my bust size (34″, so a small), and while it is really cute and wearable, it gapes quite a bit at the neck. since i have pretty narrow shoulders, this time around, i cut an x-small for the neckline only and then extended it out to a small at the end of the armhole area. it’s perfect! (i do still have to wear a cami underneath to avoid cleavage views if i bend down, though.)

since i’m pear shaped and really don’t need the extra booty emphasis, i trimmed a bit of fabric off the back. i cut the fabric out according to the pattern, and then after sewing the front and back pieces together i just lined them up and trimmed off the excess from the back. even after doing this, the shirt still ends up hanging a bit lower in the back (on me at least).

i also took about an inch off the upper back using the same method shown by rae. i figured out how much to take off by making a muslin.

because of the curves, the hem is kind of a pain to do correctly. taking a tip from oliver + s patterns, i baste stitch at the fold line, press at the stitches, and then remove them. this helps you get the hem turned easily. however, folding this curved hem (and then folding the raw edges in) is tricky, as you end up with extra fabric in the curved portions (you can see how this would happen in the pic below).

in order to sew this hem correctly, next time i will sew gathering stitches inside the hem and use them to ease in the extra fabric. i will also serge the bottom edge and then only turn the hem over once (rather than twice). an alternative method would be to do a narrow rolled hem.

i have also found that the binding at the neckline droops out a bit on this tank. the pattern just says to cut the bias binding and then sew it on. however, i have read that the correct way to sew bias binding on is to first stretch it out by pressing it. the binding also goes on a lot faster if you fold and press one of the long edges in before sewing it onto the top since it’s much fiddlier to do once the binding is already sewn on (in a circle).

i love the simple shape of this top, and it is everywhere this season. hooray for simple summer projects!


18 thoughts on “a wiksten tank

  1. very cute – way to tweak some things to make it work better! i’m broad-shouldered so this one doesn’t gape on me, but hey, everyone’s different you know? that shirting looks wonderful.

    • thanks kristin! yes, upon looking at the models jenny gordy uses for her clothes, i noticed they all have broad shoulders so figured i’d be safe going down a size. lucky you for that oh so elusive perfect fit! :)

    • thanks heather! nope, no darts on this one. there is a similar tank pattern that is being sewn a lot in blogland (and whose name is escaping me… anyone?) that does have bust darts.

      • I think you are talking about the Colette Sorbetto. I think I will stick with my trusty Simplicity 2599, which has separate pieces for cup sizes. I really like the scoop neck and curved hem of this one though. I’ve tried to make those modifications to the Simp. one, but I don’t think I’ve nailed it yet.

        • i did a bit of sleuthing to figure out what the pattern is- it’s the tiny pocket tank by grain line studio. the neck is very similar to that on the wiksten tank, and the hem is curved, though a bit less so.

          • Oh, yes. I forgot about that one. I actually bought it but decided not to use it because my bust measurement put me in a size that would be too large elsewhere—thus the beauty of a pattern with consideration of cup-sizes! : > )

  2. such a cute summer tank, and in the blue gingham, it’s perfect! You were smart to sew up a muslin first – I’m usually too impatient (ok . . . lazy) to do so, but have been eyeing the Lisette Portfolio tunic and thinking I should probably knock out a muslin first for sizing. You tweaked final product looks great!

    • Thanks, Lucinda! I’m usually too impatient to sew a muslin first, too, but am learning it’s worth it. The slowest part is just cutting the fabric out, the seams go together really quickly. (Apparently you’re supposed to use a basting stitch to sew a muslin, I forget where I read that. Made by Rae?)

      Can’t wait to see your Portfolio tunic! :)

      Have a great weekend! Robin

  3. Looks great, Robin! I finished my first wiksten-ish tank last week. I say “wiksten-ish” because I made so many alterations, I’m not sure it’s even the same pattern anymore, ha! I love the Wiksten pattern, it just made me look a bit wide. I love how it looks on you, though! And the gingham shirting is perfect. I love the bias-cut pocket. Beautiful job!

  4. Pingback: Japanese Sewing Book Series with nested in stitches | you and mie

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